Review: Niod Copper Amino Isolate Serum – CAIS2

Where to purchase: Available at Look Fantastic US / Look Fantastic UK / Beauty Bay

Price: £38 / £60

Volume: 15ml / 30ml

What is it?: A Pro-repair, Pro-Collagen serum. It is a water-based serum containing 2% copper peptide (This replaces their 1% copper peptide which is now being sold at the Ordinary).

Niod’s promise: ”Targets signs of skin aging, including visible textural damage, uneven tone, visibly enlarged pores and a general lack of healthy radiance normally present in younger skin. In short, the skin will look healthier with continued visible improvements with continued use.”

Good for: Line prevention (targets the signs of ageing by stimulating collagen production). As this contains Hyaluronic acid and peptides as humectants, this is also surprisingly good at hydrating the skin too (obviously this would require another serum or moisturiser on top but it’s a nice perk) – so dehydrated skins I don’t think would find this unpleasant. It’s extremely lightweight so oily skins could also find this beneficial. I think dry skins who want to use copper peptides would prefer the other Copper Amino Isolate Lipid product from Niod which is in a tube and contains more emollient ingredients HERE

NOTE!: I would not recommend this to acneic skin (skin with pimples) because it could sting/irritate open wounds as it did sting when I applied over a spot previously. Also I would not apply this onto SENSITISED skin (would sting).

Description: Summing up all the science on Niod’s web page, the jist of the serum is that it contains GHK peptide – which is a Tripeptide (this is not copper) and GHK-CU (This is the copper, Which is in the other bottle that you mix with this one, they both come in a set).

Both GHK and GHK-Cu apparently rapidly decrease in the skin by about 60% (in human plasma) by the age of 60). These help with collagen synthesis and fibroblast production as well as anti-inflammatory responses in the skin. Niod distinguish their serum from other copper serums by stating that usually GHK and GHK-Cu peptides are found in other serums at a very small amount (i.e. less than 0.01%) which then gets converted into the skin by an even smaller amount. So this high concentration of both GHK and GHK-Cu at 2% should really help the signs of skin ageing, textural damage, visibly enlarged pores (due to the lack of collagen) and so on. So the skin should look better and younger WITH CONTINUED USE. However this product being so expensive, I can understand it’s not easy to continue using this.

Packaging: So you get a box containing two bottles – these are glass dropper-like bottles. One has a metal cap and the other has a dropper. The dropper is glass too. There are instructions on how to mix the product inside.

Key Ingredients:

So, this contains many fancy scientifically named ingredients which you can check on the website,once again. But summed up, this product contains Pro-collagen ingredients (the Tripeptide, Tetrapeptide and another Tripeptide) – these are meant to stimulate collagen production in the skin.

This also contains Hyaluronic acid (to deliver water to the skin). A lipo-oligopeptide (I believe a fat-type peptide which helps penetrate the product into the skin. And Plant Glycogen which helps protect the peptides until they reach the skin (so to stop the peptides from breaking down before they get to your skin).

My Personal takeaway is that this serum aims to stimulate collagen production – so this should help with reducing scars (i.e. after one has picked a pimple or accidentally cut themselves – and I believe a person working at Deciem when I bought this serum told me she put this on her scar which was on her hand and it really helped reduce the look scar long-term), and of course as this is a collagen ‘inducing’ product this should help reduce the development of lines and wrinkles. So i’d say this is a good preventative but I’m not so sure that this can really ‘fix’ deep and established lines and wrinkles.

pH: Requires a neutral pH (so Niod state not to use this with acidic serums like direct acids at a low pH). This is effective in the range between 4.5 and 7.4 however. and Does not need refrigeration.

Directions: ”Apply to the face AM and PM” (I think you would run out very quickly this way since this serum is so watery and light). Niod state to apply this before applying any other skin treatments (I don’t know if this means even before toner as I would imagine it’s after toner?). Niod recommends adding their MMHC serum (review here) after, but I think you could use any other HA serum.

Initially when you purchase this, there are two bottles – one containing the activator (which is what you pour into the serum bottle with the dropper) and shake for 30 seconds and then it’s ready to use.

How I use it: I apply in the PM after toning (using my Hada Labo toner – review HERE). As this is so watery, it is tricky deciding how to use this, if I drip it all over my face, it can run down my neck and stain my shirt. But if applying to the fingers and then the face, it can also waste product as it can run down your hand and be absorbed. I’ve found that you have to divide the face and sort of gently drip onto the cheek and quickly rub/tap in on that area, slightly spreading it out and then moving onto the other cheek etc. I do also apply this to the neck (no irritation there). I let this dry and then use either my Typology Vitamin C Serum (this is a derivative so it’s ok to use as it has a higher pH) or I move straight on to my facial moisturiser.

NOTE: I made the mistake of using this one time under a vitamin C (L-AA serum with a low pH – it was the Timeless C E Ferulic – Review HERE)- which TURNED ORANGE. and then made a mess on my pillow which had orange stains. so I do not mix this with acids/actives. I did use this under niacinamide from the Inkey list and it was fine.

Hair Growth?: I’ve heard some things about peptides (copper peptides in particular) actually stimulating facial hair growth when used on the face. I’ve read from other reviews that this has happened to some people when using the peptide serum. I can’t really confirm or deny this, but because I’ve read these reviews it’s sort of made me feel like my peach fuzz has grown a bit longer than usual after consistent use of this serum – but once again I can’t really confirm or deny this, but wanted to let you know that people have mentioned this.

(Picture above) as you can see – the product comes in 2 bottles, one containing the Activator and one containing the serum. You pour the serum into the activator and shake that bottle, discarding the now emptied serum bottle.

Key Ingredients: 1.0% Pure Undiluted Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) + 1.0% Pure Undiluted Tripeptide-1 (GHK) – so all together 2% pure GHK peptide (Tripeptide-1) which has been separated from copper ions once you mix the serum and the activator together. GHK offers pro-collagen support.

• Pro-collagen support in the form of Pure Undiluted Tripeptide-29 which supports healthy collagen and works with the main ingredients: GHK and GHK-Cu to stimulate collagen.
• Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2 and Trigluroacetyl Tripeptide-2 (also helps with the assembly or collagen in the skin).
• Plant Glycogen – protects the peptides and break when applied to the skin, to allow for maximum exposure of the product onto the skin.
• Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 (lipo oligpopeptide) helps with penetration of the product into the skin.
• Hyaluronic Acid Crosspolymer – helps deliver water and water-soluble actives into the skin.

Full Ingredients:

ACTIVATOR

Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Tripeptide-29, Tripeptide-1, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Glycogen, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Dextran, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethoxydiglycol, Isoceteth-20, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.

COPPER CONCENTRATE

Aqua (Water), Copper Gluconate, Isoceteth-20, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.

Note: The Activator contains 2% pure GHK (Tripeptide-1). The Serum bottle, before mixing, contains Copper Gluconate. Once mixed, 1% GHK is left in free form, while 1% binds to the Copper Gluconate to form 1% Copper Tripeptide-1 (known as GHK-Cu or Copper Peptides). The “2:1” reference in the name of this product reflects the 2-to-1 ratio of GHK to GHK-Cu.

NOTE: The Incidecoder have a full ingredient list breakdown HERE

Texture: This literally feels like water. It runs down the hand and when applying, it can get quite difficult unless you directly apply this to the face and even then it drips down. It doesn’t absorb as quickly as the Argireline Solution (Review HERE), and it does take some time to fully sink in. I give it about 10 minutes to fully absorb. But the texture of this product itself is like water, very similar to the Dear Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Serum.

As you can see the liquid is blue, and it looks like water

It does run down the hand when tilting. Doesn’t sting or irritate the skin (unless you have an open sore /acne) and it does absorb into the skin after fully drying down (I give it about 10 minutes but the lady in the store did say 20 minutes is better).

Fragrance?: No added fragrance or essential oils. When rubbing this in or applying, there is a faint smell of copper but it’s not overpowering or off-putting for me.

Good Under Makeup?: Have not tried it under makeup but judging from the thinness of this product, I could imagine it being absolutely fine and not disturbing the makeup.

How long have I been using this?: For just over a month.

The Effect?: This is one of those serums that you don’t see a massive difference or change with, but like the Argireline solution (review here) – I feel like I want it around as a maintenance and a preventative. It sounds good, it sounds like if it does stimulate collagen production, I do want to keep this around and use it continually. But in terms of a visible effect, I cannot say that I have seen any crazy changes. My sister actually stopped using this because she noticed more bumps on her skin while using this. I would say however that I like this as a supplementary product (to be used in conjunction with retinol use on other nights?). In terms of texture and skin tone, I think this has helped with the tone of my skin (looking a bit more alive) and I think it has somewhat helped with the texture!

What I like:

• Very lightweight means it doesn’t feel like it’s clogging my pores
• Surprisingly Hydrating
• Absorbs relatively quick as it’s not heavy (not as quick as the argireline solution, review HERE)
• Good as a supplementary product in an ageing-reducing routine. Actually, this would be good to use in conjunction with your routine if you use retinol (not on the same night perhaps?)
• Didn’t irritate my skin or make it worse
• Helped with the tone and texture of my skin!

What I don’t like:

• Really easy to waste product as it’s so lightweight i.e. it can drip down too quick and it’s hard to apply through the fingers (and this is too expensive to waste).
• Expensive for a supplement/to be used as an additional preventative, these types of products should be used consistently, and that is very hard to upkeep when it is so expensive.

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Overall Rating and Conclusion: It’s hard to give this a rating – but I like using preventatives and supplementary products as you know, and the idea of a product that helps stimulate collagen and keep the health of your skin nice is nice to buy into. Yes this is expensive, but there’s nothing quite like this product that I’ve encountered, and I think that’s why it’s also quite hard to compare/conclude. At least this hasn’t made my skin look worse and it also hasn’t stung or irritated my skin. And I do think that this did help with the texture and tone of my skin. It’s just difficult to maintain because it is expensive and this requires continuous use.

Would I repurchase?: I would because I like supplementary products in my routine (like the Argireline Solution HERE and the Hylamide Subq serum HERE) – but this isn’t the cure to lines and wrinkles, so if someone has a choice between this or retinol, I would say go for the retinol.

Dupe?: The only other similar product is also from Deciem, this is their Buffet and Copper Peptide 1% – HOWEVER this serum is one I included in my Youtube video – skincare products I STOPPED using. And this is because this product differs on two vital levels: 1. The texture of the ordinary’s serum is gloopy, it balls up/pills (i.e. doesn’t layer or sit well underneath and on top of other products) AND this seemed to sting/irritate my skin when it WASN’T sensitised. This contrasts greatly with the Niod serum which is both watery and didn’t irritate unless I had a wound/sore on the skin.

My Skin Type: I am acne prone and have combo skin. My skin is usually tight where the cheeks and eye area is and the outer parts of my face. My T zone is oily. My skin isn’t a fan of thick/heavy formulas so I opt for lightweight formulas to prevent it from clogging up. My skin doesn’t like essential oils either and I try to avoid fragrance when I can.

Disclaimer: I am a skincare enthusiast and not a skin expert. I am not qualified to give out dermatological advice. This type of advice should only be given by a medical practitioner. Upon trying / using any of the reviewed products on the blog, please follow the manufacturer’s instructions and warnings and please seek medical advice if needed.