[Review] Niod – Modulating Glucosides: Serum for Reactive Skin

Where to purchase: Deciem: LINK / The Ordinary: LINK / Look Fantastic: LINK / Adore Beauty: LINK / Selfridges: LINK

Price: £27 / $35

Volume: 30ml

Made in: Canada

What is it?: An emulsion-type serum that works to ease skin sensitivity (i.e. reduce signs of irritation and stinging sensation) and also helps alleviate dry skin.

What does it do?: Supports the skin’s barrier function and reduces skin reactivity + provides antioxidant support.

Supposedly Good for: All Skin Types.

What I think: This definitely suits sensitive skins. This suits Dry skins over oily skins, but combination skins (particularly during the winter) may enjoy this texture as it’s an emulsion (will help keep the skin moisturised).

Vegan?: Yes.

Cruelty Free?: Yes.

How long does it last after opening?: 6 months (shame it’s not 12 months).

EU-Allergen Free?: No.

Malassezia Suitable?: No.

pH: 4.50 – 5.50.

Packaging: Glass bottle with a dropper.

Directions: In the AM and/or PM. Use after cleansing, before anhydrous serums, oils, suspensions or creams. Note: Do not use with Direct acids, pure Vitamin C, powerful antioxidants and Salicylic acid (BHA). (From the website HERE).

How I use it: I apply this in the evening after toning. During hot weather, my oily-combination skin can use this as a moisturiser in the PM (i.e. last step in a skincare routine) since it’s so emollient, it’s like a liquid moisturiser. A little goes a long way (this spreads quite far) so I don’t need a large amount to cover both the face and neck.

Key Ingredients: This serum is all about Soothing the skin, protecting it (via antioxidants) and moisturising it (via emollients).

A few notable Soothing ingredients are:

Multi-Molecular Lipid Complex: A blend of ceramides, oat analogues, ginger root, and other lipids to reduce redness, itching, and discomfort / Naringenin Chalcone: Soothes stressed skin. / Yeast-Derived Superoxide Dismutase: Neutralizes skin damage and aging signs caused by oxidative stress (Note: Superoxide Dismutase is also in Niod’s Mist (Swatches + Review HERE). / Purified Levomenol: Supports the skin barrier and provides hydration for comfort.

Other highly notable soothing ingredients include: Alpha-Bisabolol (Active part of chamomile) / Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside (modified EGCG from Green Tea) / Rosmarinyl Glucoside (active, super component of Rosemary) / Caffeyl Glucoside (main phyto-active of coffee) / Gallyl Glucoside (comes from Oak Leaves) / Tetrasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone (Naturally occurs in citrus fruit and tomato skin’s) / Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone (comes from a spice in the ginger family),

Of Note: This Serum contains SymSitive, which can reduce stinging by up to 78% and burning by 80% 3 minutes after application. It basically blocks cell signalling, to prevent the feel of irritation (Reference / Reference 2).

This also contains SymCalmin (copies soothing qualities of Oat), Neutrazen (soothing), Tasmanian Pepper Extract (contains Polygoail (potently anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial), Ginger Root Extract (contains gingerol which is a potent antioxidant as well), Golden Eye-Grass Root Extract (allegedly this can modulate the internal mechanism of the skin’s pH control, to maintain a healthy skin barrier).

This also contains extra antioxidants: Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone and Propyl Gallate to protect the skin from oxidative stress and environmental damage.

Other notable ingredients include Natural Moisturising factors (I have reviewed The Ordinary’s NMF multiple Creams/ Moisturisers HERE). Natural Moisturising factors aid in supporting the skin while also providing moisture. This serum contains 11 Amino acids plus PCA and Sodium PCA to do so.

The Emollients (Help to soften the skin and keep it smooth and hydrated) included are: Squalane, Rapeseed Sterols, Cetylhydroxyproline Palmitamide (similar to Ceramide 2 – helps a healthy skin barrier), Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Capric Triglyceride and Hexyldecanol.

Full Ingredients: Aqua (Waer), Squalane, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Hexyldecanol, Bisabolol, Butylene Glycol, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Rosmarinyl Glucoside, Caffeyl Glucoside, Gallyl Glucoside, Tetrasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Cetylhydroxyproline Palmitamide, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Superoxide Dismutase, Sodium Pca, Pca, Arginine, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Aspartic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Mirabilis Jalapa Callus Extract, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Curculigo Orchioides Root Extract, Isochrysis Galbana Extract, Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols, Stearic Acid, Dextran, Isoceteth-20, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Propyl Gallate, Tromethamine, Dehydroacetic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol.

NOTE: The Skincarisma have a full ingredient breakdown HERE

Texture: As you can see, this is a lightweight emollient serum. It spreads along the skin smoothly and easily, and isn’t sticky or tacky. It does have a slight yellow colour which dissipates once rubbed in. It does leave the skin feeling very moisturised (see below for video swatch).

Sticky?: No.

Greasy?: Yes-ish. I.e. this has an emollient texture, so it’s very fatty. But once rubbed in and absorbed, this doesn’t feel like an oil sitting on top of my skin, it absorbs more than that.

Balls up?: No.

• As you can see this begins as an opaque, yellow liquid that doesn’t immediately run down the hand (but is close to).

You can spread this out along the skin. There is still a yellow-ish tint to it, which begins to dissipate the more you rub this in. This does not feel sticky or tacky.

Swatch Comparison: No Product (Left) VS Product (Right):

Does this Sting if the Skin has been Irritated / Sensitised by Shaving/Heavy Retinol Use?: No.

Summer or Winter?: Oilier Skins – Winter. Dry Skins – All Seasons.

Layerable?: Yes.

Video Swatch:

Fragrance?: Fragrance + EO Free. However, I’m not the biggest fan of the scent of this. This smells (to me) like melted butter (not in a nice way).

Good Under Makeup?: Yes (doesn’t ball up).

How long have I been using this?: 3-4 Months.

Will I use until Completion?: Yes, as I appreciate the effects of this.

How Long will that take?: Another 3-4 months (I don’t use this daily, only when the skin is irritated). However, as this ”goes off” after 6 months- I might not be able to finish this in time.

The Effect?: This both moisturises the skin (as this is very emollient) and helps alleviate any skin irritation. I feel like redness starts to go away minutes after using this, and the skin feels less itchy.

What I like:

• Fragrance + EO Free
• Cruelty-Free
• Moisturising
• A little goes a long way
• Soothes irritation (Contains a plethora of Antioxidative and Soothing Ingredients which all help to alleviate irritation and protect the skin)
• Not sticky or tacky

What I don’t like:

• Can be a little too emollient for oilier skins
• This is unscented, but I’m not a fan of the smell (smells like butter, and it’s quite potent)

Overall Rating and Conclusion: 4 (nearly 3.9) /5 – This is definitely a moisturising serum. I appreciate that it is lightweight despite being so emollient. It’s still not my preference compared to a more watery serum (I have Oily-combination skin), but it isn’t very heavy during these winter months (I would not enjoy it as much in the summer). This definitely helped soothe any skin irritation or redness I experienced (due to retinol use etc), and I have no problem reaching for it if I need to tackle any skin sensitivity.

I really do not like the smell however (smells like melted butter, but not in a yummy way) and it’s quite potent. So basically, the texture isn’t my preference for someone with oily-combination skin (unless it’s dry or winter) and the smell isn’t my preference, but the effect is good, and I would recommend this to sensitive skins (alternatives below).

Would I repurchase?: Overall: Yes, because it does help with skin sensitivity. However, as someone with oily-combination skin, I do prefer more aqueous serums, so I would also try to get a cheaper alternative (that’s also very emollient from The Ordinary – their barrier support serum (Review HERE),

Dupe?: The La Roche-Posay – Dermallergo Serum also contains Calmosensine which helps dull the skin’s pain receptors i.e. to reduce irritation + sensitivity. This is water-based, so feels nicer on oilier skin types – (Full Swatches + Review HERE).

Available at: Cult Beauty: LINK / Sephora: LINK / Look Fantastic: LINK / La Roche-Posay: LINK

• The Geek & Gorgeous – Stress Less Serum (Full Swatches + Review HERE) is more simple than Niod’s Modulating Glucosides (Contains Cica), but it is simple and simply soothing (If you have genuine irritation, the Niod may help address your needs better however).

Available at: Geek & Gorgeous: LINK

• The Ordinary also recently came out with their Soothing & Barrier Support Serum (Swatches + Review HERE) which is also emollient, thereby moisturising, while actively working to reduce skin sensitivity and irritation. The difference with Niod is that it contains a lot less soothing antioxidants (it maintains some key ones) and texturally is a little less sophisticated.

Available at: The Ordinary: LINK / Sephora: LINK

• If you have Oilier, Blemish-Prone skin and are also looking for a skin soother, then The Ordinary’s Aloe 2% + NAG 2% Solution may be preferable – Full Swatches + Review HERE

Available at: The Ordinary LINK / Cult Beauty LINK

• If you have dry skin, or want that creamy, buttery and very emollient serum (Cream) to moisturise and support irritated and weakened skin, then Stratia’s Liquid Gold is a great recommendation (Swatches + Review HERE)

My Skin Type: I am acne prone and have slightly dehydrated combo skin. My skin is usually tight where the cheeks and eye area is and the outer parts of my face. My T zone is oily. My skin isn’t a fan of thick/heavy formulas so I opt for lightweight formulas to prevent it from clogging up. My skin doesn’t like essential oils either and I try to avoid fragrance when I can.

Disclaimer: I am a skincare enthusiast and not a skin expert. I am not qualified to give out dermatological advice. This type of advice should only be given by a medical practitioner. Upon trying / using any of the reviewed products on the blog, please follow the manufacturer’s instructions and warnings and please seek medical advice if needed.

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