Review: The Inkey List – Madecassoside Mask

Where to purchase: Available at the Inkey List Website: LINK

Price: £9.99

Volume: 50ml

Made in: The UK

What is it?: A Cream (Mask + Treatment but you can keep it on) containing Madecassoside (From Cica) that can be used to treat skin barrier or use as a weekly mask to keep the skin’s barrier up to par.

What does it do: Aims to reduce inflammation, redness + itching (rebuild the skin’s barrier). Provide a cooling sensation + hydration to stressed skin (can be washed off after ten minutes, or left on).

What does it do?: Aims to provide the skin with instant relief from irritation, overheating and soreness.

Aims to: Tackle red, irritated skin.

Supposedly Good for: All Skin Types.

What I think: I think Dry Skins > Oily Skins. This doesn’t have a wet feeling but more of a creamy one. I also think Sensitive skins would also enjoy this and sensitised skins (if you need the skin to cool and calm down after irritating it).


Vegan?: Yes

Cruelty Free?: Yes

How long does it last after opening?: 6 Months

Packaging: Tube with a Screw-top lid.

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Directions: Can be used in the AM or PM. Apply onto damp, clean skin. Leave on for 10-15 minutes and then wash off. This can also be left on as a skin barrier treatment (i.e. leave overnight and wake up to ”refreshed” skin. Use 1-2 times a week.

How I use it: I have used this in the PM, 1-2x a week as instructed.And due to my Oily-Combo Skin, I use this like a Moisturiser (as it’s quite thick and emollient) – I do not use this as a 10 minute mask because if my skin is irritated, I want the treatment on overnight, I don’t want to just wash it away (potentially drying out my skin more with water).

Key Ingredients: Madecassoside and Ginger Root Extract (antioxidants + soothing). Menthol (Soothing, provides the skin with that cold/cooling feeling to help cool down heated skin). Bisabolol (Soothing). Sunflower Seed Oil and Capric Triglyceride (Emollients). Trehalose (Sugar) provides Hydration + Prevents Moisture Loss. Withania Somnifera Root Extract (Soothing).

NOTE: Menthol can be irritating to some, so please make sure your skin agrees with it.

Full Ingredients: Aqua (Water/Eau), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glycerin, Xanthan Gum, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Madecassoside, Inulin, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Menthol, Trehalose, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Bisabolol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Dehydroacetic Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Menthyl Lactate, Withania Somnifera Root Extract, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Lecithin, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract.

NOTE: The Incidecoder have a full ingredient breakdown HERE

Texture: This has a creamy texture. It feels like a cream which does have a slight watery texture to it when initially applying. You feel that cooling sensation most definitely. It feels very soothing, almost like applying an aloe gel to the skin. But rubbing this in more and more, it begins to feel more uncomfortable, it forms more and more of an unbreathable barrier (great to prevent TEWL) which is why I’d say this would suit dry-er skins that need that protecting barrier.

If you see below, this forms a sort of white cast once it’s done spreading, and I need to ‘tap’ the product in order to make the white go away. So that does remind me that this product is a mask (i.e. reminds me of clay). This however does not sting and does moisturise. It’s not as hydrating as I thought it would be but it definitely doesn’t dry out the skin.

Also, this doesn’t feel oily or greasy, but creamy.

Initially an opaque cream.

When spreading out, I hope you can see how creamy and emollient this is (but it doesn’t feel oily or greasy).


Do you see how after spreading this, this forms a white colour, almost like how a clay mask works. I have to tap the product in, in order to make the white go away. Of course if you’re just using this as a mask, then it doesn’t matter if the face looks ghostly for 10 minutes.


So after tapping in the product, the white does disappear.

Does this Sting if the Skin has been Irritated / Sensitised by Shaving/Heavy Retinol Use?: No.

Summer or Winter?: If using as a Mask – any season. If using as a Moisturiser (Leave-on treatment) the texture of this works for the Winter.

Layerable?: Not meant to be layered (but it wouldn’t ball up if you did).


Video Swatch:

Fragrance?: No added Fragrance or EO BUT this smells like peppermint toothpaste (not my favourite).

Good Under Makeup?: It can sit under makeup, but as this is more like a mask, I wouldn’t recommend it (almost paste-like).

Will I use until Completion?: No – not my kind of texture + feel.

The Effect?: Soothed + Cooled down skin. This definitely makes the skin feel good (brings down the redness) and has that tingly menthol feeling – I don’t think the experience would not feel or be nice for people who don’t have irritated/sensitised skin. This didn’t ruin my skin or make it worse and the additional moisturisation helps the skin look and feel good.

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What I like:

  • Fragrance + EO Free
  • Moisturising
  • Didn’t worsen my skin
  • Helps with overheated skin
  • Nice, tingly/cooling sensation when applied
  • Does help irritated skin

What I don’t like:

  • Menthol can be irritating
  • Too thick for my oily-combo skin and my skin feels like it can’t breathe (uncomfortable)

Overall Rating and Conclusion: 3/5 – This definitely works. But the sensory/textural experience is not fun. I think this would have worked better as a lightweight gel moisturiser containing menthol and madecassoside. I also am not a masker, so I do wear this overnight and it’s not a pleasurable experience due to the thick texture. IT IS nice however, the cooling sensation when applying the product but once the menthol goes away, it’s hard for my oily-combo skin to enjoy the unbreathable sensation on my skin. I do think this will definitely suit those who like to mask and recover irritated skin, but I would recommend it more to Dry, irritated skins who want a moisturiser that will help recover the skin overnight (just don’t use this if you have a menthol sensitivity).

Would I repurchase?: No.

Dupe?: The COSRX Cica Cream (also more for Normal-Dry Skins). Or the Purito Panthenol B5 Re-Barrier Cream.

My Skin Type: I am acne prone and have slightly dehydrated combo skin. My skin is usually tight where the cheeks and eye area is and the outer parts of my face. My T zone is oily. My skin isn’t a fan of thick/heavy formulas so I opt for lightweight formulas to prevent it from clogging up. My skin doesn’t like essential oils either and I try to avoid fragrance when I can.

Disclaimer: I am a skincare enthusiast and not a skin expert. I am not qualified to give out dermatological advice. This type of advice should only be given by a medical practitioner. Upon trying / using any of the reviewed products on the blog, please follow the manufacturer’s instructions and warnings and please seek medical advice if needed.

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