Review: ELMT – Pure Vitamin C 20% Element (Serum)

Where to purchase: Yesstyle: LINK

Price: £36.90 / ~$45

Volume: 30ml

Made in: South Korea

What is it: A waterless Vitamin C Suspension, containing 20% Pure L-AA (Ascorbic Acid i.e. Vitamin C). And also (like a moisturiser), it is meant to form a protective barrier on top of the skin and give it a glow.

Aims to: Brighten the Skin (reduce the look of dark spots + scars), Increase Collagen Production in the Skin, Increase Cell Renewal, Even the Skin’s Tone, Protect the skin from environmental damage.

What makes this special / different?: This contains ELMT’s Vitamin C powder that uses a 2-Tier stabilisation technology 1. A Bio-Ferment Extract and 2. A fatty base, to prevent the Vitamin C from activating, until it touches your skin (keeping it as potent as possible, to work on your skin).

Supposedly Good for: Ageing Skin / Dry skin / Dull Skin (Supposed to be suitable for all skin types).

What I think: I would recommend this more towards Normal + Dry Skins > Oily Skins. Due to the Vitamin C % in here, I would not recommend this to sensitive skins and first-time Vitamin C users (I would recommend something like the Jumiso Vitamin C Serum (HERE) or a Derivative Serum; like the Rovectin Dark Spot Serum (Review HERE) or the Numbuzin Vitamin Concentrate Serum (HERE).

Note: I’ve previously reviewed the ELMT Toners LINK

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Vegan?: Cannot find if this specific product is vegan (although the brand is).

Cruelty Free?: Yes (as the brand is).

How long does it last after opening?: 3 Months. I can’t tell if this is IF you completely open the lid (so air goes into the product) or simply just by using the product (i.e. just pumping regularly, without unscrewing the lid). My guess would be if the product is opened, as if this oxidises in just 3 months by using the airtight pump mechanism, then that’s a very short lifespan for a product that claims to have a top-tier, stabilised Vitamin C.

Malesezzia Suitable?: No.

EU-Allergen-Free?: Yes.

Packaging: A weighty plastic tube with a pump mechanism and a cap. This is good, sturdy packaging that doesn’t leak and is easy to travel with. As this is a vitamin C; the product being airtight is a plus (to slow down oxidation and help ensure potency).

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Directions: The brand recommends using this product in the PM, to ensure efficiency. Apply 1-2 pumps to the face and then follow up with a serum or moisturiser. 2 is the maximum pump amounts the brand recommends (or less as needed i.e. if you have sensitive skin, then you can build up). For more directions and precautions, please check this website.

Tip: Ascorbic Acid activates when it comes into contact with water; so the brand recommends applying this onto damp skin for the best results, so: You can also mix this with other skincare products after using a water-based toner, or after applying a water-based serum.

How I use it: I apply this as instructed. I applied this after using a toner (to wet the skin). I thought perhaps adding this onto wet skin would reduce the oiliness/stickiness of this product, but it did not. I also applied this product onto my neck (which was fine for me). 2 pumps on the face, and then stretched it to the neck, but ended up using 1/2 a pump more to cover the neck as well. As this is a creamy product, I did not think that I needed a moisturiser on top (Oily-Combo skin), however, due to the greasy (almost sticky) finish of this, I applied a gel-cream on top, to try and alleviate some that greasiness (it did not).

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Key Ingredients: 20% Ascorbic Acid (Antioxidant that brightens the skin, stimulates collagen in the skin, reduces darkness and pigmentation) / Ferulic Acid (Antibacterial + Antioxidant that also slows down Vitamin C oxidation and improves its work) / Panthenol (Soothing + Moisturising) / Apricot Kernel Oil (Emollient) / Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment (Antibacterial)

Full Ingredients: Propanediol, Ascorbic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Candida Bombicola/Glucose /Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Glyceryl Glucoside, AmmoniumAcryloyldimethyltaurate /VP Copolymer, Panthenol, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polyquaternium-10, Ferulic Acid

NOTE: The Incidecoder have a full ingredient breakdown HERE

Texture: This is a very unique and strange product. It looks like and feels like a cream initially, when applying onto the skin. And it looks very sticky (please see the swatch video below), but the more you rub it; the more transparent this product becomes and it sort of melts into a more balm-ointment-like texture. It still looks sticky (if I tap the skin), but it doesn’t feel very sticky (i.e. my pillow doesn’t totally stick to my face), but it does feel very greasy.

My skin feels warm when applying (not a comfortable feeling); this is due to the high % of Vitamin C and the Biolipid base (Note: This can irritate sensitive skins.) The warmth subsides after rubbing into the skin, but I don’t like that initial feeling. This is also not very easy to rub into and along the skin (feels like I’m slightly pulling / tugging the skin).

The brand states this doesn’t contain oil (but it contains Apricot Kernel Oil). The brand also states that the feeling of greasiness disappears 30 seconds after application, but that did not happen for me. I continually feel greasy and uncomfortable wearing this, and applying a moisturiser on top did NOT dissipate that feeling. My upper lip area also felt sweaty. Furthermore, for me: this does NOT disappear into the skin: it sits on top of the skin, and I can feel it (not comfortable for my Oily-Combo Skin).

Sticky?: This looks sticky but doesn’t feel actually very sticky (feels more oily, i.e. like a melted balm/ointment).

Greasy?: Yes.

Balls up?: No.

  • As you can see, this is initially a white-cream that does not feel grainy (i.e. not like a silicone-in-powder). The more you spread it, the more the white colour dissipates and this melts (the way a balm or ointment melts) into the skin and becomes more like an ointment-oil, sitting on top of the skin.
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Hopefully you can see how shiny/greasy this looks, and that effect doesn’t seem to disappear or absorb into the skin fully.

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Swatch Comparison: No Product (Left) VS Product (Right)

This was AFTER I rubbed the product in some more to let it sit, melt and absorb into the skin.

Does this Sting if the Skin has been Irritated / Sensitised by Shaving/Heavy Retinol Use?: Yes.

Summer or Winter?: Winter (particularly for Dry Skins).

Layerable?: Yes.

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Video Swatch:

  • As you can see, this almost looks like toothpaste. It doesn’t disappear or fully absorb into the skin and remains shiny on the skin.

Fragrance?: This is Fragrance + EO Free (It just smells strongly like Ascorbic Acid).

Good Under Makeup?: I wouldn’t recommend it (due to the oily finish).

How long have I been using this?: 1-2 Months (I had to stop because I couldn’t take the texture anymore).

Will I use until Completion?: No.

The Effect?: At first: A warm, uncomfortable sensation when rubbing on the skin. I did not feel any stinging. Once settled; a slightly sticky and greasy face that is moisturised. Long Term: I had to stop using this product as it was too uncomfortable to wear, however, I did notice some definite improvement in the dullness of my skin tone. Had I continued, I’m sure my dark spots would also have begun to lighten (but I couldn’t take the texture anymore).

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What I like:

  • Fragrance + EO Free
  • Cruelty-Free
  • Moisturising
  • High % of Vitamin C – Very effective albeit, potentially irritating for some
  • Doesn’t feel as sticky as it looks (as this melts moreso into an oil-ointment when rubbing in)

What I don’t like:

  • Not a fan of the ”Warm” sensation when rubbing this into the skin
  • Uncomfortable greasy/oily finish that sits on top of the skin and doesn’t disipate
  • May expire 3 months after opening (unclear whether it’s when naturally using the product or if you actually open the lid and let air in).
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Overall Rating and Conclusion: 1.9/5 – I do not doubt the efficacy and efficiency of this product; it has a high vitamin C% (however, 10-15% is also effective although might take slightly longer to see results), and is waterless (reduces oxidation rate and keeps the potency of the vitamin c), it’s just the wearability and texture of this product has been very unpleasant for me. As someone with Oily-Combination skin, I found this to feel like a balm/ointment, that’s a bit sticky and difficult to spread over the face. I don’t enjoy the warm sensation when applying, and it makes my skin feel like it’s sweating. I couldn’t finish using this because it was too difficult to wear.

  • Personally I prefer more liquid formulas like the Paula’s Choice 15% Vitamin C Booster (Review HERE) or the Jumiso 5.5% Vitamin C (LINK).

Would I repurchase?: No.

Similar Creamy/Suspension Vitamin C dupes?: The Paula’s Choice – 25% Vitamin C + Glutathione Clinical Serum (Cream) – Has a plethora of Skin brightening ingredients including Vitamin C, Ascorbyl Glucoside and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.

Available at: Paula’s Choice LINK / Dermstore: LINK / Sephora: LINK

  • The Ordinary’s – Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% is a Silicone-based Vitamin C Suspension containing 23% Vitamin (Very high, not aimed at Sensitive Skins), if you want a product that is NOT oily (but Silicone-Creamy instead). This is Fragrance + EO Free, Vegan + Cruelty-Free.

Available at: The Ordinary: LINK / Beauty Bay: LINK / Sephora: LINK

  • The Beautystat – Universal C Skin Refiner is a silicone-based 20% Vitamin C serum/cream. It is very similar to the Ordinary’s Vitamin C Suspension, but slightly more comfortable on the skin (less grainy).

Available at: BeautyStat: LINK

  • The Inkey List’s – Vitamin C Serum is also a Silicone-based, high % Vitamin C Serum (Cream) that is very similar to The Ordinary’s Suspension in texture. Fragrance + EO Free, Vegan + Cruelty-Free.

Available at: The Inkey List: LINK / Look Fantastic: LINK

My Skin Type: I am acne prone and have slightly dehydrated combo skin. My skin is usually tight where the cheeks and eye area is and the outer parts of my face. My T zone is oily. My skin isn’t a fan of thick/heavy formulas so I opt for lightweight formulas to prevent it from clogging up. My skin doesn’t like essential oils either and I try to avoid fragrance when I can.

Disclaimer: I am a skincare enthusiast and not a skin expert. I am not qualified to give out dermatological advice. This type of advice should only be given by a medical practitioner. Upon trying / using any of the reviewed products on the blog, please follow the manufacturer’s instructions and warnings and please seek medical advice if needed.

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